Craig Buddon
Take the E grade anyway
Take the E grade anyway
A delightful pink granite quarry. With creative pad and spotter placement the crag gives several boulder problems, some of which are the start of trad routes. The crag faces south west and gets all the sun going so can be a place of respite on a cold winter's day or totally unbearable in the summer sun.
The site is biological SSSI, with sensitive heather slopes to the left side of the crag. Descents should be made by abseil or by following the wall at the top back towards the reservoir, returning to the bottom of the crag via the approach. Please do your bit and take a bin bag and collect up any litter you find.
The site is biological SSSI, with sensitive heather slopes to the left side of the crag. Descents should be made by abseil or by following the wall at the top back towards the reservoir, returning to the bottom of the crag via the approach. Please do your bit and take a bin bag and collect up any litter you find.
Mike Adams' topo can be downloaded below. Topo for the rest of the crag can be found on the archived version of LeicestershireClimbs.co.uk
| craig_buddon_mike_adams.pdf |
Parking: Park on the Swithland Reservoir dam (52.72970,-1.17530)
Approach: Walk to the north end of the dam, the crag should be visible on your left.
Approach: Walk to the north end of the dam, the crag should be visible on your left.
Craig Buddon offers some of the finest climbing to be found in Leicestershire, on perfect Charnwood granite with an excellent view over the reservoir.
- Rock Climbs in Leicestershire (1966)
Budden, or Button Wood, has been long admired... You behold venerable pyramids of rock, spiring above each other in the happiest forms.
- Select Views in Leicestershire, J. Throsby (1789)
Buddon is famous for its rocks, its mosses, ferns and fungi, and its monster colonies of great black ants.
- Charnwood Forest, F. T. Mott (1868)
Budd was the war-god of the Druids - we have Buddon Wood.
- Illustrated Handbook of Charnwood Forest, R. Allen (1857)
