Markfield Quarry
Hard pulling in a hole in a hill
Hard pulling in a hole in a hill
Known formally as Hill Hole Quarry
A granite quarry turned nature reserve. The climbing here feels very different to that of the volcanic tuff at Cademan or the slate-like rock around Woodhouse Eaves.
The bouldering is mostly located on the upper-tier of the quarry. There are three main areas. Overhanging Wall has the hardest problems in Leicestershire outside Forest Rock. The upper tier beyond the fence has recently been developed and gives some bouldering in the f7s, but be careful if you decide to cross it. In contrast to these, Upper Betty's Slab is home to some easier slabby bouldering.
Markfield is also home to Leicestershire's finest deep water solo route: Baptism VS 5b (non-swimmers can take E3). Unfortunately the traditional way to access this route is now overgrown with gorse so you will need to approach via the water.
The bouldering is mostly located on the upper-tier of the quarry. There are three main areas. Overhanging Wall has the hardest problems in Leicestershire outside Forest Rock. The upper tier beyond the fence has recently been developed and gives some bouldering in the f7s, but be careful if you decide to cross it. In contrast to these, Upper Betty's Slab is home to some easier slabby bouldering.
Markfield is also home to Leicestershire's finest deep water solo route: Baptism VS 5b (non-swimmers can take E3). Unfortunately the traditional way to access this route is now overgrown with gorse so you will need to approach via the water.
Mike Adams' topo can be downloaded below. Clint Maskell and Will Turton's topo for the boulder problems over the fence is also below. Routes on Grey Slab and information on Baptism can be found on the online version of the old Leicestershire Climbs guidebook.
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Parking: Park courteously next to Saint Michael's Church on The Green, Markfield LE67 9WD. There is also a car park on Hill Lane, though it has been reported that cars have been broken into here.
Approach: Walk up Mill Hill Lane. Follow the footpath up the hill, when you see the information board on your left continue straight to descend into the quarry bowl. The boulder problems are on walls on the eastern edge of the quarry. Accessing some of the problems will involve crossing the fence. A map of the quarry can be found here.
Approach: Walk up Mill Hill Lane. Follow the footpath up the hill, when you see the information board on your left continue straight to descend into the quarry bowl. The boulder problems are on walls on the eastern edge of the quarry. Accessing some of the problems will involve crossing the fence. A map of the quarry can be found here.
On the side of the road, and indeed the country hereabout is a display of rude nature, grey ponderous rocks jut forth from the hills, and here and here patches of fern and wild thorns are scattered about.
- Supplement to the Leicestershire Views, J. Throsby (1790)
Markfield is called in old documents "Merc-en-Feld" [Mark-In-Field], and there seems to be some explanation of this provided in the existence formerly of "The Altar Stone" in a field to the Leicester side of the village, stated to have been "covered with outlandish letters." This is thought to have been Roman; but whatever it was, it went towards road-repairs long ago."
- Charnwood Forest and its Environs, M. P. Dare (1925)
Many other possibilities abound in this quarry for a bold gardener with aqua-lungs.
- Rock Climbs in Leicestershire (1966)
